At Kastrup (Copenhagen airport) trains run directly from underneath the terminal to the city centre every few minutes, taking just 13 minutes for the journey. English is widely spoken, and some notices, for example on a car park, were in English only.

A good idea is to buy a Copenhagen Card; these cost 199 DKK (Danish Crowns) for 24 hours, or 429 DKK for 72 hours (there are nine crowns to one pound). These cards work on the trains and buses in the whole region, and also give discounts or free entry to museums, galleries, with some restaurants offering a discount on production of your card.

There is also a splendid Metro system (details on www.m.dk) and the card gives unlimited travel on this as well.

Copenhagen has a great feeling of space and light, enhanced by it being on the sea. Waterways reach into the city centre, and the funnels of large ships are visible every now and then over the tops of shops and offices. Tourist boats run regular tours, and there is also a water bus service.

The tourist boats all call at the famous landmark statue of the little mermaid sitting on her rock. You almost come across her by accident; she is so small and the rock is just a few feet from the shore, but there are always many people there using up miles of film.

Tourist buses also run around the city. Starting from in front of the Town Hall, these let you see the impressive buildings of all ages and styles – style and design are key words in Denmark. In the airport, even the seats are made by Danish designers. In 2002 the Danes celebrated the 100th anniversary of the birth of Arne Jacobsen, who is credited with starting the design movement in Denmark. This focus on design is apparent everywhere.

In the centre of the city are the famous Tivoli Gardens. Opened in 1843, and at that time just outside the city ramparts, they have been developing ever since. This fun park of 8.3 hectares has fairground rides, two theatres, 900 trees, fountains and sculptures, three stages for open-air concerts, 40 restaurants and 1200 staff. There really is something for everyone here, and more details are available at www.tivoligardens.com or www.tivoli.dk

The city centre is also home to the Royal Copenhagen Pottery, which lies in a pedestrian zone. The original blue fluted design from 1775 is still made today. All its output is hand made, and you can watch a craftsman/woman at work, casually holding an expensive delicate plate in one hand while skilfully painting the design with the other. The skill and craftsmanship is awe-inspiring. There are complete dinner services on display that have taken innumerable man-hours to create. A look at their web site at www.royalcopenhagen.com shows the range.

The impressive Rosenborg Castle in Copenhagen.

If you are feeling hungry, a typical Danish café is where they serve Smorrebrod (literally butter bread). Here you go up to the table and select a dish, a kind of open sandwich, and you keep going choosing different ones, served with good Danish beer, wine, or any of a variety of rocket fuel type spirits. It is not unusual to find the plates are actually Royal Copenhagen.

Another interesting restaurant is the old Customs House, (www.customshouse.dk) right on the waterfront, where you can eat and watch the wide variety of boats and ships go by. Danish beer is famous, and there is a Carlsberg beer museum to visit, one of many museums and galleries – again the Copenhagen Card is useful for reduced or free entry.

The region is expanding rapidly. With Malmo, just across the water in Sweden, the Oresund region has been created (www.visitoresund.info) and the new bridge linking the two countries, with a 20-minute interval train service, makes a trip to Sweden a common excursions. The dynamism of the region is apparent in a new suburb being built to the land side of Copenhagen, called Orestad. This will house an incredible 20,000 people, and is well on the way to completion. Once again, good design is prominent.

The buildings are all special, with innovative features, environmentally friendly, and planned so that there are shops, offices, community centres, everything, all well planned to fit in with the houses and flats. To start with, the Metro was built out there, with frequent interval trains all day. This means that as people move into the area, they see the trains running already, and are not forced to use cars. The metro runs directly into the city centre – and to the airport – making car use unnecessary.

The overall impression is one of style, class and space. The old buildings, reflecting the trading importance of the Danes, are impressive and grand. There is the fort to explore, where soldiers still live and drill, with its star shaped moat, grand palaces and churches, and a neat and tidy feel to the city. It is good for a short break, but you will want to come back again. More details are available from www.visitcopenhagen.com

Copenhagen Opera House... one of many sights to be glimpsed from tourist boats.

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