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Eat My Words: We try The Northern Fish Restaurant in Elgin before iconic chippy closes after 100 years of business





Nothing quite beats a good fish supper.

I’ll admit, it’s something I rarely indulge in but with Elgin’s iconic Northern Fish Restaurant set to close for good this week I thought this was as good a chance as any to treat myself.

The Northern Fish Restaurant has been on Elgin High Street for more than a century. Picture: Daniel Forsyth
The Northern Fish Restaurant has been on Elgin High Street for more than a century. Picture: Daniel Forsyth

We covered news of the shop’s upcoming closure earlier this month. It has been a mainstay on the High Street for over 100 years and remained in Michael Miele’s family’s hands for more than seven decades.

I’m ashamed to say, however, that up until this week I had never eaten at the much-loved chippy despite being born and raised in Moray.

So, alongside one of my colleagues, I headed down for a spot of lunch to get a feel for why the shop has been so popular among locals, visitors and even some celebrities over the past century.

The Northern’s authenticity is clear to see when you walk through the front door.

The walls are covered in trinkets and references to the past including an original menu from the 1920s as well as newspaper clippings from over the years.

Our reporter Ewan Malcolm prepares to eat the fish and chips. Picture: Daniel Forsyth
Our reporter Ewan Malcolm prepares to eat the fish and chips. Picture: Daniel Forsyth

Michael Miele, who has run the shop since 1995, greeted us as we walked in.

It was busy, as is often the case with The Northern during lunch time, but Michael and his staff ensured the shop lived up to its century old motto: “Quality service and hygiene”.

We were seated in one of the shop’s cosy booths. Much of the interior has remained largely unchanged since the 1950s with regulars fiercely defensive of maintaining that feel.

After sitting down I could understand why. The shop is comfortable and welcoming and the authentic feel plays a large part in that.

Additions have been made to the menu over the years but its core elements have remained the same.

An order of a fish supper and a white pudding supper. Picture: Daniel Forsyth
An order of a fish supper and a white pudding supper. Picture: Daniel Forsyth

The fish and chips are made the same way as it was over a century ago with the recipe for the batter still a closely guarded secret.

Naturally, I thought it was only right to order a fish supper on what was my final chance to sample it.

The order, which consisted of a fish supper, white pudding supper, an Irn Bru and a Coke, amounted to a reasonable £20.49. The fish supper itself was priced at £9.99.

While waiting, we were treated to a song on the shop’s famous jukebox which I had assumed no longer worked.

Stories of it being temporarily moved before enraged regulars demanded that it was brought back are now infamous so I was glad to see it was still in working order.

The iconic jukebox. Picture: Daniel Forsyth
The iconic jukebox. Picture: Daniel Forsyth

Our food arrived soon after. A chippy is, understandably, judged on its fish and chips so I was pleased that The Northern’s lived up to its billing.

The batter was crispy, it was also crunchy in all the right spots and the fish itself was moist and perfectly cooked.

The chips, complimented by a smattering of salt and vinegar, were also perfect and although the meal was simple, it was no less satisfying.

I had never eaten at The Northern before but having now done so I’d encourage everyone to go along for a ‘last supper’ before it closes on Saturday, August 31.

SCORES

Food: The fish and chips were excellent and it will be sad to see the recipe go once the shop closes. *****

Decor: The shop’s interior could be seen as outdated by some but it has been kept that way for a reason and it adds to its charm. *****

Staff: I can’t compliment the staff and Michael enough. They served everyone with a smile and were quick to get orders out. *****

Price: £9.99 for a fish supper is fairly reasonable in my opinion and given the quality and evident freshness of the food, it is a price that I am more than happy to pay. *****


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